Baby Steps ... 2001 to 2004
Since we're one design racers sailing 18 foot Y Flyers, a type of scow, and essentially have no experience outside of a couple of charters in the BVI & Abacos, we decided that the time spent before we retired and started our commuter cruising adventures should be spent getting comfortable with what we termed "Baby Steps". We picked a marina within an easy and inexpensive 2 hour flight from home and set a goal of spending at least 50 nights a year aboard Winterlude. We accomplished our goal and were well on our way to familiarizing ourselves with the boat and its systems when we left the US for the Western Caribbean in October 2004. We spent time in the marina, "helping" as we had professionals install our systems, we "helped" re-rig the boat, we "helped" give the diesel a tune-up, and the mechanic was nice enough to give us a "how to" for the basics we needed to know about our Nanni-Kubota. We sailed our first overnight to a "caribbean island" in 2002 when we adventured to the Dry Tortugas, then spent an entire month aboard in 2003, just to see if we liked it and if we could stand each other that long! :) Here are some of the highlights:
Dry Tortugas
Anchored at Dry Tortugas
Winterlude anchored in Garden Key Harbor in The Dry Tortugas, Florida Keys (about 60 miles west of Key West). We watched the weather for a month prior to the trip -- we had deliberately planned 11 days in order to give us a small weather window on each side of the sail down. The forecast was for perfect weather, 5-10 from the East for the 28 hours we calculated it would take us to sail from Burnt Store Marina in Charlotte Harbor to Garden Key in the Dry Tortugas.
The trip down actually took 28 hours & 42 minutes from leaving the dock at Burnt Store Marina to anchor down & set at Garden Key. We were really happy to be arriving just before noon so we could see clearly into the water & avoid any obstacles.
The trip down actually took 28 hours & 42 minutes from leaving the dock at Burnt Store Marina to anchor down & set at Garden Key. We were really happy to be arriving just before noon so we could see clearly into the water & avoid any obstacles.
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Somehow there's just nothing like seeing the sunrise after an overnight at sea. And this sunrise is on my watch, making it even better!!! We were out of sight of land for the first time for any length of time -- 3 days. David thought I'd freak, but it was VERY peaceful. There's nothing to describe the stars at night away from any light pollution & the sunrises are the most beautiful in the world!
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 Ft Jeff Arches Touring Ft Jefferson was incredible! This fort was built from 1846 to 1875 on a sandbar that lacked even basic resources like fresh water. It was originally built to allow the U.S. control of the entire Gulf of Mexico, but never actually opened. The millions of bricks were all imported and laid by bricklayers that had to catch their fresh water from the rain in cisterns. Today there is still no fresh water at Ft. Jefferson!
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 Ft Jefferson Moat The only way to visit is by private boat, seaplane or ferry from Key West.
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Weather & Ice Cubes in Paradise
We stayed at Garden Key Harbor for 2 1/2 days exploring Ft. Jefferson, kayaking all around the anchorage, and the other small Keys. The birds were incredible, from the soaring frigatebirds who can have wingspans of 7' across, to the kamikaze pelicans which always make me laugh. There were eagle rays playing in the anchorage, dolphins playing amongst the boats, lots of barracuda cruising around, and the three giant grouper reportedly 300 lbs plus each but we never caught a glimpse. We did see nurse sharks cruising in the clear water just below the kayaks!
We dinghied over to Loggerhead Key (2.75 miles and not really recommended in a dinghy, but it was a calm day & we decided to try -- no problem). About halfway across we were buzzed, literally by a military F-18 or some type of fighter jet. I couldn't move quick enough to get the camera out! We explored the little island & walked around the lighthouse. Then snorkeled the reef at Little Africa -- great snorkeling, and a great little reef! We walked the seawall around the fort, dinghied to the back of fishing boats to try & buy fish -- they would have sold us great fresh fish, but they wouldn't clean them and we don't know how -- one more thing to add to our "learn how to do" list!!!
The weather finally interfered with our reverie by sending first a weak cold front and then a major cold front accompanied with winds from the north/northeast -- BUMMER, right on the nose. We decided to leave after 2 1/2 days at Dry Tortugas to take advantage of the south winds preceding the cold front. We left Garden Key at 7 AM Wednesday morning and were 17 miles south of the Boca Grande Inlet seabuoy when the winds shifted to the NorthEast. Not bad timing! And it turned out that the wind was GREAT, just from the wrong direction. Since we had nothing better to do, we just sailed an extra half day getting back taking advantage of the wonderful winds!
We dinghied over to Loggerhead Key (2.75 miles and not really recommended in a dinghy, but it was a calm day & we decided to try -- no problem). About halfway across we were buzzed, literally by a military F-18 or some type of fighter jet. I couldn't move quick enough to get the camera out! We explored the little island & walked around the lighthouse. Then snorkeled the reef at Little Africa -- great snorkeling, and a great little reef! We walked the seawall around the fort, dinghied to the back of fishing boats to try & buy fish -- they would have sold us great fresh fish, but they wouldn't clean them and we don't know how -- one more thing to add to our "learn how to do" list!!!
The weather finally interfered with our reverie by sending first a weak cold front and then a major cold front accompanied with winds from the north/northeast -- BUMMER, right on the nose. We decided to leave after 2 1/2 days at Dry Tortugas to take advantage of the south winds preceding the cold front. We left Garden Key at 7 AM Wednesday morning and were 17 miles south of the Boca Grande Inlet seabuoy when the winds shifted to the NorthEast. Not bad timing! And it turned out that the wind was GREAT, just from the wrong direction. Since we had nothing better to do, we just sailed an extra half day getting back taking advantage of the wonderful winds!
One important thing we learned -- 11 days is NOT enough for a trip like this. It seemed so simple and eleven days seemed so long when we started planning. But weather windows favor no one & we only got to stay in paradise 2 1/2 days! The other important lesson from this trip was that there's NO WAY I'm going to cruise paradise without ice cubes. It was HOT and our ice melted before we got to the Dry Tortugas - warm gin & tonics just didn't taste as good. So we resolved to figure out how to make our refrigerator freeze ice cubes!
A Month Aboard ... Florida Keys
My Sailfish!
Mid-March to Mid-April 2003 -- our first full month cruise on Winterlude. This was a test to determine if we could live on the boat for a month, if we still liked each other after living on the boat that long, if we still liked cruising, if I could work from the boat, and just to see how much fun we could stuff into 30 days! We accomplished all our original objectives and then some. We hadn't quite counted on all the "extra" experience we gained, but it was all good (after the fact)! We weathered a couple of near gale force storms at anchor (one in Newfound Harbor & one off Fleming Key in Key West). David learned to change a shower sump pump and an alternator belt after both needed replaced -- never at a convenient time, of course! Billy & his friend, Michael joined us for Spring Break in Key West -- despite the weather not cooperating, we had a good time, especially during the fishing charter that then encouraged us to purchase trolling equipment for Winterlude!
 Billy Catching Fish |
 Jan Testing the Top Climber |
