Winterlude Anchored Behind the Culebra Cayes, MX ... January 23, 2005
Earlier this morning, a lone osprey atop the abandoned lighthouse on Culebra Caye, loudly protested David & I, for kayaking too near his deserted beach. As ospreys are known for viciously defending their nests when they perceive danger, we wisely chose to continue our circumnavigation rather than climb to the top of the lighthouse where the osprey was perched. I would have loved a photo of Winterlude resting at anchor on the other side of this tiny caye, but not this time! This is the best anchorage yet ... I know I say that after every place we've been, but it's true.
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The Culebra Cayes are a series of deserted mangrove & palm covered tiny islands dotting Bahai de la Ascension and part of the huge Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve in the southern Yucatan. They provide a great place for Winterlude to anchor for a few days to wait out the next cold front. This is one of the few places in the world with an endangered species of crocodiles.
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Every time we hear a branch break (generally a coconut falling), David & I jump in anticipation of seeing a croc's snout appear in front of our kayaks! But so far all we've seen is mucho fish, dolphins, a swimming turtle & birds everywhere. From the soaring magnificent frigate birds to every species of heron imaginable, to brown boobies, they all inhabit this reserve -- also jaguars, ocelots, iguanas & other critters that we don't care to meet after dark on a deserted island (no wild boars tho', Ronnie & Connie!)! And it's supposed to be famous for grey snapper fishing & locals supposedly harvest lots of lobster, hopefully we'll be able to buy some & grill some lobster tails in the next few days. Later during the kayak adventures, David had a crab crawl in his kayak after leaving it on the beach for a few minutes -- dangerous place, this!!! :)
Did I mention there are no other sailboats anchored here? Just us & the birds & fishies! Today we saw a total of 3 other boats -- Mexican pangas, 2 were fishing at a distance and one had turistas aboard for a tour of the bahai (bay). Oh, and Bahai de la Ascension is the size of Charlotte Harbor -- not a small little bay at all!
Did I mention there are no other sailboats anchored here? Just us & the birds & fishies! Today we saw a total of 3 other boats -- Mexican pangas, 2 were fishing at a distance and one had turistas aboard for a tour of the bahai (bay). Oh, and Bahai de la Ascension is the size of Charlotte Harbor -- not a small little bay at all!
Sailing South Along the Yucatan Coast
We departed Isla on Friday, January 22nd with Jim on Hand Basket blowing us a conch horn salute! Our 114 mile overnight passage was uneventful - probably routine to more experienced cruisers -- just harrowing at times for us! :) Sailing past Cancun & the Mayan Riviera was a treat, we sailed about a mile offshore in a 12 kt breeze watching the parasailors.
Then it got a little trickier -- there's a 2 knot northward current along this coast. Our overnight passage had to be timed perfectly for arrival in midday sun so we'd have enough light to SEE the reef & coral heads! We calculated we had to average 5 knots. The first several hours of the passage, we had to motorsail. A cruise ship parade going northward through the Yucatan Channel provided hours of dazzling entertainment for our little sailboat headed south. Then, a few hours into the passage, the diesel decides to burp, making my heart stop -- how are we supposed to get safely through a tricky reef entrance with no engine??? Luckily it rev'd down to almost dying & then caught again -- David suspects maybe moisture in the fuel.
Then it got a little trickier -- there's a 2 knot northward current along this coast. Our overnight passage had to be timed perfectly for arrival in midday sun so we'd have enough light to SEE the reef & coral heads! We calculated we had to average 5 knots. The first several hours of the passage, we had to motorsail. A cruise ship parade going northward through the Yucatan Channel provided hours of dazzling entertainment for our little sailboat headed south. Then, a few hours into the passage, the diesel decides to burp, making my heart stop -- how are we supposed to get safely through a tricky reef entrance with no engine??? Luckily it rev'd down to almost dying & then caught again -- David suspects maybe moisture in the fuel.
 Too Much Crap on Deck, But I Can't Go Cruising Without My Kayak |
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At sunset, we put in a reef even though the light wind didn't warrant it - cruising wisdom says to ALWAYS put a reef in before sunset. Sure enough by 11 PM, David had turned off the diesel & we were still sailing close to 7 knots in over 22 kts of wind -- at this pace, we'll arrive before sunrise! So at midnight, in the pitching seas (probably only 3-5, but very confused, from two different directions -- one off our aft quarter for the roll & another off our beam knocking the boat from rail to rail about every 3 minutes -- very NOT enjoyable!!!) -- we put in a 2nd reef & also reefed the jib.
With the confused seas, of course, we had the cacophony of noise that accompanies a boat rolling sideways rail to rail! We got NO sleep - big surprise. At one point, the stove rolled hard enough that the oven flew open & we were clobbered by bbq utensils, cookie sheets & muffin tins! :( One never expects to be attacked by the kitchen utensils!
Arriving just after a gorgeous sunrise, we began our harrowing pass through a reef. Unfortunately, just as David spotted the Punta Allen lighthouse -- the first landmark -- he also spotted an upside down cruising sailboat bobbing in the surf. Just what was needed to settle David's already frayed nerves! Apparently alot of boats hit the reef here because the cruising guide gives incorrect lat/long waypoints. Luckily, we already knew the correct waypoints from other cruisers. We made it through the reef easily except for our nerves, which were both shot, and anchored behind this caye in about 8 feet of gin clear water (there may be no gin to be had in Mexico, but they have more than their share of gin clear water!!!).
The perfect end to the day was the best green flash at sunset that either of us had ever enjoyed! We'll be anchored here for another few days & then head either to Banco Chinchorro, an atoll off the Yucatan coast or directly to San Pedro, Belize, won't know until we go!
Jan & David, aboard s/v Winterlude
currently anchored behind Culebra Cayes, 19 42.166N, 87 29.569W
With the confused seas, of course, we had the cacophony of noise that accompanies a boat rolling sideways rail to rail! We got NO sleep - big surprise. At one point, the stove rolled hard enough that the oven flew open & we were clobbered by bbq utensils, cookie sheets & muffin tins! :( One never expects to be attacked by the kitchen utensils!
Arriving just after a gorgeous sunrise, we began our harrowing pass through a reef. Unfortunately, just as David spotted the Punta Allen lighthouse -- the first landmark -- he also spotted an upside down cruising sailboat bobbing in the surf. Just what was needed to settle David's already frayed nerves! Apparently alot of boats hit the reef here because the cruising guide gives incorrect lat/long waypoints. Luckily, we already knew the correct waypoints from other cruisers. We made it through the reef easily except for our nerves, which were both shot, and anchored behind this caye in about 8 feet of gin clear water (there may be no gin to be had in Mexico, but they have more than their share of gin clear water!!!).
The perfect end to the day was the best green flash at sunset that either of us had ever enjoyed! We'll be anchored here for another few days & then head either to Banco Chinchorro, an atoll off the Yucatan coast or directly to San Pedro, Belize, won't know until we go!
Jan & David, aboard s/v Winterlude
currently anchored behind Culebra Cayes, 19 42.166N, 87 29.569W
