Reflections on Cruising from Lighthouse Reef Atoll, Belize
Swimming Pool Clear Waters
Our day today, sailing from Turneffe Reef to Lighthouse Reef, Belize illustrates our first few months of cruising! Before the coffee was even ready this morning, David had already spotted a pod of dolphins playing under the boat. The best part was the momma & baby frolicking together around the transom! Then we listened to the NW Caribbean Net, catching up on where all the other boats we know are heading & checking the weather.
After the weather, we made the final decision to sail to Lighthouse Reef today (Thursday). Lighthouse Reef in Belize is a national park and one of 4 true south pacific style atolls in the Caribbean. An atoll is an extinct (we hope) underwater volcano-the rim of which forms the reef around an area
where small islands have developed over thousands of years. Lighthouse is described in the cruising guide as "WOW - Lighthouse Reef should not be missed. It's exceptionally clear waters of aquamarine blue are adorned with numerous beads of jewel-like reefs.
After the weather, we made the final decision to sail to Lighthouse Reef today (Thursday). Lighthouse Reef in Belize is a national park and one of 4 true south pacific style atolls in the Caribbean. An atoll is an extinct (we hope) underwater volcano-the rim of which forms the reef around an area
where small islands have developed over thousands of years. Lighthouse is described in the cruising guide as "WOW - Lighthouse Reef should not be missed. It's exceptionally clear waters of aquamarine blue are adorned with numerous beads of jewel-like reefs.
 Wind in the Palms at Half Moon Caye |
 Baby Booby Birds at the Half Moon Bird Sanctuary |
This enchanted anchorage has everything you could want: beautiful beaches, a red-footed booby bird sanctuary, a great blue hole, and miles of virgin coral reef that provides unsurpassed snorkeling and scuba diving." -- The sail was everything we could have dreamed of-flat inky blue seas, blue sky, wind about 12 -- just a picture perfect sail. Until our buddy boat, Wasabi, called to say he'd just hit a sunken log, but wasn't taking on water & for us to watch out for the log. Halfway up to the spreaders I went to our lookout spot. Sure enough both David & I saw the log at the same time & avoided it easily-but a few minutes before we were eating lunch, watching the water go by & wouldn't have even noticed it until it hit us! YIKES!!!
Should Have Gotten "Local Knowledge" Before We Left!
Staghorn Coral Just Under the Surface
Approaching Lighthouse Reef, things got interesting. Keep in mind, the charts for this area were last updated in the mid-1800's. As you can
imagine, lots of things have changed over a few hundred years! Islands on the chart no longer exist & some not on the chart have magically appeared!
Anyway, as we approach Half Moon Caye, nothing looks quite right. We're looking for a sandy patch just to the left of the small island that's
supposedly great to anchor. Yeah right. No sandy patch, no 10 feet of water, nada, zip-uhoh, what now, we're 25 miles out in the middle of the blue ocean! Yet another navigational challenge! Luckily, s/v Wasabi at 46 feet long, is faster than us! So they got to do the initial reconnoitering! Brian called on the VHF-"well, there's good news & bad news". The good news is that the channel behind Half Moon Caye through the reef has new entrance buoys. The bad news was that on the SOUTH side of the island, where we need to be so we have protection for the coming Norther, there's NO shallow water or sand to be had.
imagine, lots of things have changed over a few hundred years! Islands on the chart no longer exist & some not on the chart have magically appeared!
Anyway, as we approach Half Moon Caye, nothing looks quite right. We're looking for a sandy patch just to the left of the small island that's
supposedly great to anchor. Yeah right. No sandy patch, no 10 feet of water, nada, zip-uhoh, what now, we're 25 miles out in the middle of the blue ocean! Yet another navigational challenge! Luckily, s/v Wasabi at 46 feet long, is faster than us! So they got to do the initial reconnoitering! Brian called on the VHF-"well, there's good news & bad news". The good news is that the channel behind Half Moon Caye through the reef has new entrance buoys. The bad news was that on the SOUTH side of the island, where we need to be so we have protection for the coming Norther, there's NO shallow water or sand to be had.
We both slowly explored the area, picking our spots. Wasabi got his anchor down first & was holding fine in 25 feet of water over sand. Winterlude had to do things the hard way! David wanted to be in 25 feet of water or less-since we only have 150' of chain attached to another 150' of nylon rode. To get in that close to the beach meant avoiding LOTS of coral heads. After much maneuvering to get the exact spot David wanted, a small turquoise sandy patch, he dropped the anchor. OH NO-it's dragging. We finally anchored in 30 feet of water over sand with lots fewer coral heads!!! BUT the stern of the boat is over the inky blue line that indicates where the shallow water falls into oblivion-off soundings is what we refer to it-basically means that our depth gauge doesn't read that deep-well over 250 feet. So if we drag, we'll be off into the Caribbean!! Definitely one of the most unique places we've anchored-very strange to look behind the boat & realize the water just fell
off the edge of the extinct volcano!!!
 Hermit Crabs Bigger Than My Fist |
 Flamingo Tongue on Purple Sea Fan |
SO, we had a wildlife experiencebefore coffee, a go or no go decision based on the latest weather info tosail to Lighthouse Reef with a Norther due to blow through tomorrow, then, a GREAT sail, some navigational trauma and finally a major confrontation with
a coral head while anchoring. Now we're anchored in a VERY ROLLY anchorage,feels like we're still underway & watching the sunset. A typical day in a cruisers life!
a coral head while anchoring. Now we're anchored in a VERY ROLLY anchorage,feels like we're still underway & watching the sunset. A typical day in a cruisers life!
Reflections On Cruising
Cruising has definitely not been exactly as expected. Probably the best word to describe the overall experience is INTENSE. Not the relaxed, sipping pina coladas in a hammock" lifestyle that the glossy sailing magazines illustrate. There's more uncertainty & anticipation than relaxation. Every day brings new challenges & you have no idea until the challenge arrives, what it will be or how you'll manage to "jerry-rig" this one! A few days ago, we were in Ace Hardware in Belize City-the first
well-stocked hardware we've seen since we left Florida. If we only knew what the NEXT thing to break was going to be, we could buy the stuff we need in advance.
well-stocked hardware we've seen since we left Florida. If we only knew what the NEXT thing to break was going to be, we could buy the stuff we need in advance.
 Swimming Pool Waters |
 Kayaking the Shipwreck North of Half Moon Caye |
With the intensity comes some irreplaceable (and unfortunately un-photographed) experiences-watching momma & baby dolphins frolic around the boat, seeing the crocodile slide into the water, watching the turtle swim by, enjoying a sunset with an icy cold cocktail, the satisfaction felt when you've successfully negotiated yet another navigational challenge and the cameraderie of the cruising community.
The other side is the uncertainty of having the engine quit 15 miles from one of the most difficult reef entries anywhere, the uneasiness felt when we provisioned in Belize City - the vagrants & beggars were unbelievable-I felt safer in the WORST part of New York City than during that 2 hours in Belize City; sitting through a norther with the wind switching 360 degrees, blowing stink & wondering if your anchors will hold or if your boat will be the next to drag and be high & dry in the mangroves or on a reef and, perhaps the worst, slowly, slowly closing on a reef that's not awash, so you have no real idea where it is, just some bearings & waypoints from boats that have gone before-HOPING that they're right, while moving forward at less than 2 knots so if you DO bump the reef, maybe you'll have a chance to get off before losing the boat.... all of this & more goes through our daily existence.
Overall, I think we both relish it, altho' maybe not at the moment it's happening. Sailing the 3 day passage from the Keys to Isla, definitely a challenging passage & while at the time, it was really scary, after the fact, David commented that he's never done anything so satisfying. That sums up what we think about cruising.
The other side is the uncertainty of having the engine quit 15 miles from one of the most difficult reef entries anywhere, the uneasiness felt when we provisioned in Belize City - the vagrants & beggars were unbelievable-I felt safer in the WORST part of New York City than during that 2 hours in Belize City; sitting through a norther with the wind switching 360 degrees, blowing stink & wondering if your anchors will hold or if your boat will be the next to drag and be high & dry in the mangroves or on a reef and, perhaps the worst, slowly, slowly closing on a reef that's not awash, so you have no real idea where it is, just some bearings & waypoints from boats that have gone before-HOPING that they're right, while moving forward at less than 2 knots so if you DO bump the reef, maybe you'll have a chance to get off before losing the boat.... all of this & more goes through our daily existence.
Overall, I think we both relish it, altho' maybe not at the moment it's happening. Sailing the 3 day passage from the Keys to Isla, definitely a challenging passage & while at the time, it was really scary, after the fact, David commented that he's never done anything so satisfying. That sums up what we think about cruising.
